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Burda Spring Coat - Construction

Here I am back with the promised post on construction of my Burdasyle Spring Coat

For me, this coat was all about the embellishments: I had had my eye on the pattern for a while, I like that it's very simple so it was perfect for embellishing. If you've been reading my blog for a while, you'll note that I haven't yet gone back to making a notched collar after messing this one up (that's less fear than not having enough time). I also liked the opportunity to forego closures, which meant more time to play with all the pretty things I used :)

So, construction. The fabric is wool gabardine, and the lininig is silk satin. I interfaced this using the lightweight fusible weft interfacing from FashionSewingSupply - I wasn't really sure what to use, but upon testing multiple interfacings, this was was the best on this fairly light-weight fabric. I mostly used my Singer Tailoring book, and followed the "fusible" method: this means interfacing the whole front, the hems and the top of the sleeves, as well as creating a front fusible stay. Additionally, I interfaced all seams on both the shell and the lining, a trick I picked up from my RTW jackets:

I also added a back stay, and followed the instructions for adding a back neck stay:

As seen in the picture above, I also catch stitched all the seams down with fairly long stitches.

Then, embellishments. I only used these on the front of the coat:

I used three types: the wool selvedge, the little copper/metal bits and some soutache. I attached the selvedge first, to the bottom of the coat - this is pretty subtle and it goes around the coat.

In this picture above, you can see the markings for the soutache as well. I attached this by machine, even though you would normally do it by hand. The soutache does not go around, but stops at the side seams. I then added the metal bits, after playing with them for a while. 

I really like the result, although I ended up hemming the thing much higher than I thought I would have to initially. 

This concludes the posts I had on this coat. I haven't been able to wear it anywhere yet because it's been so warm this summer - we've had an amazing summer here in Switzerland, best one since I've been living here in fact. I had some time after I finished this coat to do some more sewing, but no pictures yet... hopefully I'll get to that before summer is over though! 


  1. It sounds like a labour of love!

  2. this is such a great coat and I love the embellishments. I think once the winter chill returns you will wear it lots, it would look so good over an all black outfit to contrast.

    1. Yes, I'm really looking forward to that. But for now, I'm happy to just enjoy summer (which has been simply amazing this year)


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