Skip to main content

Blue Spring Coat

Oh, the irony, of publishing a post with the word "spring" in it on the 3rd of June when it is something like 25-30 degrees Celsius outside. There's always next spring though :)

This is my spring coat - a coat that was meant for spring, but instead took all spring to sew, so I guess at least the name fits. I started this sometime at the beginning of March, and finished it last weekend.


This is a Burdastyle pattern, more specifically Collarless Open Coat 03/2012 #110, in size 38. This size fits me very well for Burdastyle coats, although I think the adjustment I make in shirts and dresses (raising the armhole) should be just a standard adjustment for me. As it stands, the coat is feels nice, but raising the armhole would have given me more freedom of movement. Not a big deal, but helpful given daycare pick ups etc.


Looking at these photos, the sleeves also seem a bit wide, but to be honest I prefer a bit more ease through the arms. What I don't like, is that the sleeves seem short. I followed the advice in my Singer Tailoring book and hemmed the sleeves one inch above the knuckle, but I guess I need to hem a little longer next time. I'll make a note in the book about this.


As the name suggests, this coat has no closures. It is made out of light weight-y wool gabardine - it's definitely a spring / autumn weight fabric, it would not make for a good winter coat. The lining is a silk satin.

I bought the wool from the A Fashionable Stitch online store, back when it was still open, and it's been in my stash since December 2014. The silk for the lining came from the Thai Silks brick and mortar store, back when they were in Los Altos - I went there with a friend from work in May 2015, I'm pretty sure that's when I bought it. I was pretty sad to hear they would be closing, but I see they in fact moved to Mountain View instead, so it's great they're still around.


The lining is truly spectacular, I had originally wanted to make a Vogue 1387 long sleeved blouse out of it, but I didn't quite have enough fabric, so this was a good alternative. Plus, I like the little surprise to be found on the inside. Lesson learnt though, silk blouses need 2.5+ yards of fabric.



I had this embellishment idea a while ago, and I was determined to get it sewn eventually. According to my Etsy purchase history, I got the little copper embellishments in March last year!


I used several things for embellishments: the main fabric selvedge, a length of soutache and some green/blue-patina copper pieces I got off Etsy. To be perfectly honest, I'm not super happy with the way I attached the slevedge and the soutache - I don't like the slight ripples in the fabric. I'm not entirely sure what I did wrong either.


I'm planning to do another post on construction, as it was interesting. I mostly followed the Singer Tailoring book for that.

In closing, what do you think about my coat? Anything I should have done differently? Anything obvious I'm missing in terms of fit?

Comments

  1. I love the embellishment; it's very Art Deco.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you! I never thought about it as art deco, but I think you're right!

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.


Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

Naming:
* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker



Steps:

1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

Birds dress

Just another sheath dress from me today, from my TNT pattern. This one is all about the fabric:

I got this bird fabric from Plush Addict, and it seems to have been the last fabric purchase pre-baby (Cosmo - Nihonkai - Budgies On Oxford Cloth if you are interested), so didn't cut into it for a long time. In May, after finishing my coat, I finally took the plunge.


The pattern, as I said, was my TNT sheath pattern, pretty simple. The biggest challenge with this dress was fabric placement, I didn't want any weird bird cuts at seams, nor did I want any other sort of weird placement. 
As i had 2 meters of this fabric, I thought I should be able to get all that, so I spent a lot of time moving fabric pieces around, until I got it. I'm pretty happy with myself, the seams meld as much as possible, I'm particularly proud of the center back:


Construction wise, this dress has 6 darts and 5 seams, so it is all relatively straightforward. I stabilized the neckline and armholes with…

A new shirt

I made a white shirt. I cut this out sometime in late September, and I used McCalls 6035 again. I managed to finish it around Christmas. I wanted a nice white shirt, with a bit of a twist, so I added grey embelishments to it.


I am very pleased with how the embelishments turned out. I did a few things:
- embroidered the collar with French knots
- added grey/white twill tape to the sleeve seams
- used mother-of-pearl-with-grey-tint buttons

The effects are subtle, but they are there and I like them.



I embroidered the collar using two shades of grey, in a "burst" pattern. I tried to be relatively consistent about density of the French knots, but I think a bit of difference isn't very bad.


The collar was the first thing I finished, and it stayed there for a long time, until I found the time to get back to sewing.


I used a lot more interfacing on the collar than I normally do, and I think it shows. The buttons and tape on sleeves were added later and they're not very speci…