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A new shirt

I made a white shirt. I cut this out sometime in late September, and I used McCalls 6035 again. I managed to finish it around Christmas. I wanted a nice white shirt, with a bit of a twist, so I added grey embelishments to it.

I am very pleased with how the embelishments turned out. I did a few things:
- embroidered the collar with French knots
- added grey/white twill tape to the sleeve seams
- used mother-of-pearl-with-grey-tint buttons

The effects are subtle, but they are there and I like them.


I embroidered the collar using two shades of grey, in a "burst" pattern. I tried to be relatively consistent about density of the French knots, but I think a bit of difference isn't very bad.

The collar was the first thing I finished, and it stayed there for a long time, until I found the time to get back to sewing.

I used a lot more interfacing on the collar than I normally do, and I think it shows. The buttons and tape on sleeves were added later and they're not very special, but they do help bringing the whole thing together:

Now for the not so good parts. This time I used  D-cup pattern pieces, with some back alterations to make it wider. I also used the sleeve from another pattern, as I wanted a proper cuff with a placket. That sleeve pattern is a bit too long, which is visible in the photos below. I overlocked the seams then topstitched to create the illusion of a flat felled seam.

I always had limited range of motion in this pattern: I thought making the back wider would be fixing this problem, and I widened the back pattern piece to match one of my RTW shirts. However, between cutting and sewing there was a lot of time, and in particular I came across a post from lladybird where she talks about raising the armscye to allow for range of motion (I went looking for this post but can't find it). Reading this immediately made sense - I usually raise the armscye about 1" on all sleeveless things I make, so perhaps this would work for sleeved garments too?

I tested the theory on a previous version of this pattern (which never made it to the blog because it is just a bit meh), where I added a gusset to the underarm - and it worked! This fully fixed the range of motion issue - so I did the same on this pattern, I added an improvised gusset after the fact:

It's not very pretty, but it's barely noticeable. One of the other things that bothers me about this pattern is the sleeve cap ease - it was always a problem, but it was incredibly hard to set in the sleeves in the fabric I used this time, which is some sort of a cotton with a bit of stretch.

I ended up taking pictures of this one twice, once after a day of work and once after ironing.

To be perfectly honest, I am ready to retire this shirt pattern. It taught me a lot of things, but in the end the fit is just not that great and I have problems every time I use it. It still has various bits of obvious extra fabric here and there and I just don't feel like tinkering with it more.

Actually one of the things that bothers me the most about this version is the sleeves - they are way too long, and there are also weird folds all over.  And now that I look at these photos, I also think the shirt itself is a bit short. Perhaps an extra inch or two would make a big difference.

Since as I said I'm mightily pleased about the little details, I wear this shirt, but it has enough fitting issues that I prefer to wear it under a vest or a jumper. That way, the awesome collar is not wasted.

Parting shot of the collar again because I like it so!


  1. That is a very pretty collar/button combo. I may need to steal it!

    1. Thank you! I don't remember if I stole it from somewhere myself to be honest..


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