I made a new coat! This is Burda 11/2014, models 110 and 111 (the length is somewhere in between the two models, I think I increased the shorter version by 5 inches).
This was a much easier coat to make than my previous one, but it still took aaages to finish. I tried to be careful with everything, and followed instructions in my Singer sewing book closely.
The fabric is a plum wool, I think it might be a boiled wool, but I'm not sure - the yardage came from a store in Bucharest, which is better than most stores in Bucharest at labeling things, but still doesn't really distinguish between the different types of wool.
Truth be told, I wanted something a bit more pink (like the original Burda pictures), but I couldn't find anything suitable, so it had to be either plum or some typical dark winter color (the horror!)
I cut a straight 38, which for Burda coats fits me very well - my previous coat was a 38 too. I didn't need to make a muslin because last May, when I was studying tailoring with Beth, I got to try on her version of the coat, so I knew how it would fit.
The shawl is gigantic - in a nice way! I decided to use 3 big snaps as closures - 2 at waist level and one a bit lower down in the front. There's an additional snap (the black one) for extra warmth, so I can close the collar a bit more.
I covered the male part of the snaps in the fashion fabric, but had to leave the other side uncovered, because otherwise they wouldn't close. Since my lining didn't match the outer fabric color-wise, this was all I could do - does anyone have a better alternative?
I also added pockets, and I used the Robson coat pocket pieces - the Burda version doesn't include pockets at all, which I find quite strange for Burda.
The pattern also includes a self-fabric belt but I'm not sure I want to create one anymore. I was going to do it (I have enough fabric left over), but now that I've been wearing the coat, I'm rethinking that plan. In theory it sounds good, but in practice the snaps are good enough.
Fabric wise, it is pretty warm, but I think it is a strictly positive Celsius temperature coat. Since I have a couple of coats that work well in negative temps, I decided not to interline, so this will be kept for those 0 through 10 degrees Celsius days only.
I lined the coat with two fabrics. The main body is lined with a cotton of some kind, it's got a shiny side and a matte/fuzzy side and I used the latter on the outside. The sleeves are lined in leftover crepe de chine from my Bellini blouse.
I interfaced the whole front + facing + both sides of the shawl with Fashion Sewing Supply's Medium Weft fusible interfacing. It's a good one, and it was the right choice for this material. I also closely followed the instructions in the book and pretty much graded all seams, catch stitched everywhere and just generally put a lot of work into keeping the insides stable.
That's about it - what do you think? I'm really quite happy with it.