Skip to main content

I made a coat!

I know I haven't posted for about 4 months now - I have loads of posts in drafts, just never quite ended up clicking publish - but I guess I'm coming back with a bang.

Cue coat.

This coat took about 6 weeks to make, although I originally started planning for it sometime in March. I also took tailoring classes to figure things out, and then I prepared all summer. The pictures I have of this are a bit hit and miss, but I have some good angles all around, so I think that will be good enough.

The fabric is this metallic silk brocade, and I have enough of it for another coat and a dress I think. I might have gone a bit overboard on that one. The pattern is Burda  08/2012 #101A, and it was pretty easy to work with. I deliberately wanted an oversized coat (it's almost cocoon-looking on me when closed), which is more of a fashion accessory than anything else. I think what I came up with pretty much fits the bill.

Construction went easily, except I am kicking myself over messing up the collar. If you click through the pattern link above you'll see this coat actually has a proper collar and lapels - which I even practiced making with Beth. While making the real thing though, I completely missed the fact that there was ANOTHER WHOLE SECTION of the seam to stitch and ended up with this:

It's not so bad in the sense that as far as I can tell no one realizes it's not what it should be, but I'm fairly annoyed about this. I guess I'm lucky because it is such an out-of-this-world item, that everything goes. And now I'm also pretty fired up to make something (coat? blazer?) with the same style of collar to prove to myself that I can, in fact, get this done.

Either way, moving on. I was super careful with the placement, as I didn't want it to be very over the top. Here's a front picture:

The two front sides close with snaps, and there are two flowers which seem to leave from the closure. I initially wanted to do bound buttonholes, but I thought it would be a shame to break up the symmetry, and I wasn't really ready to match the actual lines there (I don't even know if this is possible).

I also placed a big full rose on the top of the back, while leaving the rest relatively plain:

You can almost see it when I move, which I think works well. I have one picture on the tailoring dummy:

I think this shows better what I did with regards to placement. I wanted to have a lot of the flowers in the bottom part, and I think this worked relatively well. I lined it with silk charmeuse (lining is gold!), which I sewed in by hand. I covered the big snaps with fabric too, so they're less obvious. Finally, this coat has a lot of tailoring inside - now I know so much more about this than when I started!

What do you think? Despite my big mess up, how did it turn out?


  1. that pattern placement is fantastic, and your sleeves look perfect. Well done. and yes definitely a fashion coat. how great you have enough fabric for a dress as well. Love those photos with the bouquet of flowers. you look like you stepped out of a fashion magazine :) in a good way.

  2. Thank you Beth! I'm very happy with the placement, I spent a whole evening figuring it out... I'm also glad you like the sleeves - to be honest, I felt the forearm could have had less ease, but in the end decided not to make that change, and I'm fairly happy with the result.

  3. Hi, Laura. You can easely correct your mistake by closing the missing part of the lapel by hand.
    Tiny stiches on the back and front.

  4. Thank you for the suggestion! I might try it.


Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.

Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker


1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

Pregnancy Pattern Round Up

Whilst I have been sewing these past 9 months, I haven't been posting much because in the past I was not massively keen on reading about people's pregnancy patterns. However, at some point I realized that I'm wrong and having some review out there would be useful, so decided to do a round up post about what I've learnt works and doesn't work in terms of this kind of sewing. This is a very long post :)

I had a fairly easy pregnancy, so I was perfectly positioned to have good results with sewing, which is great since maternity clothing is either decently priced and of bad quality, or expensive. Dime for dime, you get more out of non-maternity ready to wear.

Some lessons I learnt along the way:
Some non-pregnancy patterns will work for pregnancy. Sort of. As bump size increases, in the best case scenario you will get the mother of all pooling at the back, as if a gazillion-inch swayback is required (but isn't!). If that doesn't bother you, you're fine; otherw…

A new shirt

I made a white shirt. I cut this out sometime in late September, and I used McCalls 6035 again. I managed to finish it around Christmas. I wanted a nice white shirt, with a bit of a twist, so I added grey embelishments to it.

I am very pleased with how the embelishments turned out. I did a few things:
- embroidered the collar with French knots
- added grey/white twill tape to the sleeve seams
- used mother-of-pearl-with-grey-tint buttons

The effects are subtle, but they are there and I like them.

I embroidered the collar using two shades of grey, in a "burst" pattern. I tried to be relatively consistent about density of the French knots, but I think a bit of difference isn't very bad.

The collar was the first thing I finished, and it stayed there for a long time, until I found the time to get back to sewing.

I used a lot more interfacing on the collar than I normally do, and I think it shows. The buttons and tape on sleeves were added later and they're not very speci…