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Vogue 1350: fitting and adjustments

I had another post prepared, but I thought I'd write this up now, even without pictures - before I forget what I did. :) I recently made Vogue 1350, if you follow me on instagram (@auxetically) you will have seen construction photos. This is a Rachel Comey pattern - I really like these patterns, they all turn out very well for me! Here is the line drawing for reference:



Despite the line drawing, this pattern is supposed to have a raised waist. I was very pleasantly surprised to see petite lines on the pattern sheet (yay). Here's my finished dress on the dress form:



I made a muslin of the bodice only, in size 14 - my measurements take me between 14 and 16 on a Vogue, but I had the pattern version with the 12-14, so 14 it was. Measurement wise, this dress was spot on - I had to make extra adjustments where I would have needed the bigger pattern size.

The petite line removed 1" out of the bodice, and 1" out of the skirt. I sewed the bodice muslin with the petite marking and the result was more of an empire waist than a raised waist, so I decided that wouldn't work for me. For the skirt, I shortened it at the petite line, and I took out another 2 inches based on eyeballing the pattern tissue on myself. I then also hemmed a VERY DEEP hem of maybe 3 to 3.5 inches to get the dress to look like the model:


I'm not exactly sure who could use the petite markings as they are and get to that result, but I certainly can't :)

Full list of alterations:
 - normal bodice length / petite skirt length
 - took a wedge of 1/2" out of the front neckline
 - stitched the bodice back seam at 3/8" for 4 inches
 - removed one of the front bodice darts
 - removed the front skirt dart
 - stitched the skirt back seam at 3/8" (added 1/2")
 - let out the front / side skirt seamline at hip level for about 6 inches - stitched at about 3/8" so in total I added maybe 1 inch at hipline in front)
 - 1" swayback
 - shortened skirt by 2" additional inches
 - took a 3-3.5" hem

For the future:
- I should take about 1/4" out of the back neckline as well

Looks like a long list, but I really love this pattern! The skirt construction is super interesting, with the side seam ending up being a dart! The two darts on the bodice correspond to a dart on the front skirt and the seamline front/back. This seamline is also curved, so if you were to color block the skirt you'd end up with a very interesting effect.



I'll write up the construction in my next post!

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