Skip to main content

Vogue 1350: fitting and adjustments

I had another post prepared, but I thought I'd write this up now, even without pictures - before I forget what I did. :) I recently made Vogue 1350, if you follow me on instagram (@auxetically) you will have seen construction photos. This is a Rachel Comey pattern - I really like these patterns, they all turn out very well for me! Here is the line drawing for reference:



Despite the line drawing, this pattern is supposed to have a raised waist. I was very pleasantly surprised to see petite lines on the pattern sheet (yay). Here's my finished dress on the dress form:



I made a muslin of the bodice only, in size 14 - my measurements take me between 14 and 16 on a Vogue, but I had the pattern version with the 12-14, so 14 it was. Measurement wise, this dress was spot on - I had to make extra adjustments where I would have needed the bigger pattern size.

The petite line removed 1" out of the bodice, and 1" out of the skirt. I sewed the bodice muslin with the petite marking and the result was more of an empire waist than a raised waist, so I decided that wouldn't work for me. For the skirt, I shortened it at the petite line, and I took out another 2 inches based on eyeballing the pattern tissue on myself. I then also hemmed a VERY DEEP hem of maybe 3 to 3.5 inches to get the dress to look like the model:


I'm not exactly sure who could use the petite markings as they are and get to that result, but I certainly can't :)

Full list of alterations:
 - normal bodice length / petite skirt length
 - took a wedge of 1/2" out of the front neckline
 - stitched the bodice back seam at 3/8" for 4 inches
 - removed one of the front bodice darts
 - removed the front skirt dart
 - stitched the skirt back seam at 3/8" (added 1/2")
 - let out the front / side skirt seamline at hip level for about 6 inches - stitched at about 3/8" so in total I added maybe 1 inch at hipline in front)
 - 1" swayback
 - shortened skirt by 2" additional inches
 - took a 3-3.5" hem

For the future:
- I should take about 1/4" out of the back neckline as well

Looks like a long list, but I really love this pattern! The skirt construction is super interesting, with the side seam ending up being a dart! The two darts on the bodice correspond to a dart on the front skirt and the seamline front/back. This seamline is also curved, so if you were to color block the skirt you'd end up with a very interesting effect.



I'll write up the construction in my next post!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting. Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone. Tools needed: * silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place * a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard * some sort of vaporiser, filled with water * bias tape maker  - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips) Naming: * left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker * right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker Steps: 1. Cut bias strips out of your silk squar

Pregnancy Pattern Round Up

Whilst I have been sewing these past 9 months, I haven't been posting much because in the past I was not massively keen on reading about people's pregnancy patterns. However, at some point I realized that I'm wrong and having some review out there would be useful, so decided to do a round up post about what I've learnt works and doesn't work in terms of this kind of sewing. This is a very long post :) I had a fairly easy pregnancy, so I was perfectly positioned to have good results with sewing, which is great since maternity clothing is either decently priced and of bad quality, or expensive. Dime for dime, you get more out of non-maternity ready to wear. Some lessons I learnt along the way: Some non-pregnancy patterns will work for pregnancy.  Sort of. As bump size increases, in the best case scenario you will get the mother of all pooling at the back, as if a gazillion-inch swayback is required (but isn't!). If that doesn't bother you, you're fine; o

Mending with embroidery

Life with baby is lovely, but there's not much time for sewing. I did manage to make one shirt, and I got started on another one (also a shorts muslin for my dad!), but it's pretty slow going. This is actually a post about craftiness and mending stuff rather than sewing a garment. I buy ready to wear from time to time, especially for the more flowy/looser style of tops which I like wearing but don't really enjoy sewing as I don't find them challenging enough. Still, buying ready to wear can sometimes have its downfalls, as was with this top: it's a very lightweight viscose, but after wearing it for a while it became a bit threadbare in the front. I kept it on my dress form for months - from June to September, when I finally decided what I wanted to do to mend it. I always figured embroidery would probably be the best option, and I pinned a lot of stuff that I liked. As an aside, I don't normally use pintrest, since I don't see the purpose in just pinn