Skip to main content

Notches and stay stitching

I made a quick remark in my previous post  about stuff I learnt from Beth when I was studying with her in May. It seems I have always done stay stitching incorrectly. Being self taught from the internet and from patterns, this is not unexpected. :) Regardless, today's post is about matching notches and using stay stitching as a guide to matching seam lines.

The long and short of it is:
a. stay stitch the seam line unless otherwise directed
b. when putting together two pieces of fabric the correct order is: match notches, match beginning and ending of seams, match in between, clipping the seam allowance if required. Clipping is particularly important if matching curves that do not look the same

Here are some pictures as an example. Here I am using the bodice of Vogue 1350, which I am currently making finished making since writing this. I start off with stay stitching everything:

This was a muslin, so I did the stitching again in that corner without removing the wrong lines.

Match notches, then the end of the seam. You can see here that one of the pattern pieces has a bit more ease. This is FINE! That ease is present between the notch and the seam end, so it SHOULD NOT be distributed anywhere else, since that's where it's needed.

Pin the seam, and clip so the piece that seems "shorter" matches the piece that seems "longer". Note - they're not actually different, the seam lines are the same length. If you do the clipping, then you won't be stretching the fabric.

Stitch (not over pins). In this picture you can see how the clipped fabric actually behaves.

That's pretty much it! It was a really good thing for me to learn just in time for making V1350 as well, since this dress has 4 (yes FOUR) of these really tricky corners.

And here is a sneak peek of the dress itself:


  1. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.


Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.

Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker


1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

Birds dress

Just another sheath dress from me today, from my TNT pattern. This one is all about the fabric:

I got this bird fabric from Plush Addict, and it seems to have been the last fabric purchase pre-baby (Cosmo - Nihonkai - Budgies On Oxford Cloth if you are interested), so didn't cut into it for a long time. In May, after finishing my coat, I finally took the plunge.

The pattern, as I said, was my TNT sheath pattern, pretty simple. The biggest challenge with this dress was fabric placement, I didn't want any weird bird cuts at seams, nor did I want any other sort of weird placement. 
As i had 2 meters of this fabric, I thought I should be able to get all that, so I spent a lot of time moving fabric pieces around, until I got it. I'm pretty happy with myself, the seams meld as much as possible, I'm particularly proud of the center back:

Construction wise, this dress has 6 darts and 5 seams, so it is all relatively straightforward. I stabilized the neckline and armholes with…

Vogue 1350: fitting and adjustments

I had another post prepared, but I thought I'd write this up now, even without pictures - before I forget what I did. :) I recently made Vogue 1350, if you follow me on instagram (@auxetically) you will have seen construction photos. This is a Rachel Comey pattern - I really like these patterns, they all turn out very well for me! Here is the line drawing for reference:

Despite the line drawing, this pattern is supposed to have a raised waist. I was very pleasantly surprised to see petite lines on the pattern sheet (yay). Here's my finished dress on the dress form:

I made a muslin of the bodice only, in size 14 - my measurements take me between 14 and 16 on a Vogue, but I had the pattern version with the 12-14, so 14 it was. Measurement wise, this dress was spot on - I had to make extra adjustments where I would have needed the bigger pattern size.

The petite line removed 1" out of the bodice, and 1" out of the skirt. I sewed the bodice muslin with the petite marking…