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Vogue 1440 - muslin / marking

I got Vogue 1440 (a Donna Karan design) for the blouse.

Last weekend I set out to do a muslin. You may remember I had some questions about the lack of an FBA on my previous project - I figured it out in the meanwhile.

Vogue must have updated the pages that handle sizing on their website recently, since now they are a lot more detailed. In particular, the How to Choose Pattern Size page now specifically says always choose blouse patterns based on high bust, and adjust pattern as necessary, unless you are a B-cup or below. B-cup, by their standards, happens when the delta between high bust and bust is less than 2inches.

For me, either choice will do - but in practice choosing based on high bust seems like a better overall fit for me so far.

This particular blouse is semi-fitted through bust, giving you 4 to 5 inches of ease (5 in this case). Based on the picture above, I think this just about works without an FBA - the grain line is not perfectly straight, however when I cut it up, all I needed extra was about half an inch, which I will get from the seam allowance. Since I am making this in a very drapey silk twill, I expect that will also help.

This also means that for Vogue patterns that are fitted or very fitted through bust, I will need to make an FBA. I also expect this to be true of any semi-fitted patterns I make in stiffer fabric - like a cotton.

Other than that, you can see some pull lines on this muslin. Here's another view:

I think the reason for this is the forward shoulder - no picture of the actual shoulder, but I moved it about 4/8" forward at the side seam - this was alteration #1, and I know I need this one on most blouses so it wasn't a surprise. The other shoulder adjustment - narrow shoulders - isn't needed in this case since the shoulders on this blouse are much narrower than a usual blouse.

Then, the next thing I looked at was the underarm, which is waaaay too low:

 You can see in the picture that even if you count the 5/8" seam allowance, that's still too low. I ended up raising this by 1", I'm hoping I won't regret that I didn't raise it further. This is alteration #2.

Finally, change #3 was taking out a 2/8" dead dart on the back pieces, at the upper back - the muslin was gaping there, and there would be no sleeve to pull it in.

This is pretty much it in terms of changes to the pattern. I managed to cut everything out of 1.5m of 44" width fabric - barely. I would have cut the armhole bands and the back band from a black silk - if I had any on hand, but I didn't. Although, come to think about it, given it's no longer Sunday, maybe going to buy some wouldn't be a bad idea. Still a few days to go until I need them so I can take my time to decide.

I leave you with a picture of the cutting and tracing process. I'm finally done with it, but it took a long time - about 1.5 hours today just to do one of the two fronts.

What do you think ? Any other changes I should have made to this one? Let me know!


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