Skip to main content

Rebecca Taylor in flowery crepe

I'm starting to be at a loss about what to call these posts you know... after hinting at this shirt for the last two posts, here it finally is.


Pretty windy the day we took pictures!

Later edit: oy, I was just looking at these pics and it seems I was wearing the blouse inside out when I took pictures since the shoulder seam is really a French seam? Oh well. S&%t happens.

I am btw massively happy with my new sewing resolution of taking things slowly. I could have rushed to finish this before a work trip last month but instead I decided to wait and do it properly when I was back, which in the end paid off. Of course, the point of failure of all resolutions (all my resolutions at least) is sustained performance, so we will see how I fare at this over the next few months, right?

But back on track, let's talk about the sewing! This is Vogue 1387, a Rebecca Taylor pattern which features two blouses:



This pattern really is a 2-in-1: there are no common pattern pieces between version A and version B. I made version B.



This is a straight size 12 - the only alteration was shortening the sleeves by an amount which I forget now, but either way I shortened them an inch too much. Hey, you live and you learn - I'm quite keen on wearing this with sleeves rolled up but my OH insists that they are fine as is. Time will tell - what do you think?



I initially made a size 14 muslin, as per pattern measurements, but that was just overall too big. I think size 12 mostly fits well, and the only thing I would change, except for my over enthusiastic sleeve shortening abilities, is narrow the shoulders - maybe something like 1/4 would be enough.

Fabric choice - silk crepe de chine as per pattern recommendation - prooved to be good as well.  I got the fabric in Britex (4th floor), but Mood also carries it for less - do what you will with that info, I'm pretty sure the one at Mood is the same fabric. I like it, and it certainly has a swish factor!



The good news is that in this style I do not need an FBA - this blouse is "loose fitting through bust". If you've read my blog for a while, you'll know I struggle with fit for tops, and the FBA is a question about most tops I make. Well, not this one - it is fine, hurray. I'm trying to understand what this means in the greater picture but for now that's good enough.



I followed instructions as written, except for finishing seams: I'm not sure what Vogue pattern writers were thinking when they suggested crepe fabric and double stitched seams on this one, but crepe de chine frays quite a lot and I don't think that suggestion was a reasonable one. I used French seams throughout instead (including sleeves). I suppose whatever fabric the original sample was made in did not fray, so double seams were reasonable? Still, I would not try that on crepe, and an quite disappointed in the instructions in this regard. They should know better, no?



I also found the instructions for the front placket a bit iffy, and that indeed is the only thing I'm unhappy with - although despite the picture below, the front actually looks even.

Sleeve placket instructions were fine and I followed them to good results - first time ever doing a sleeve placket \o/. Narrow hem as per usual Vogue instructions, with a normal machine foot- I get good results with this method so I'm sold on it. The front and back hems are finished separately before the side seams are sewn.

I used silk organza for interfacing, and it worked fine, but now I bought a bunch of suitable weight interfacing from Fashion Sewing Supply so I'll try that next time.

Will I make this again? Well, this type of blouse is right up my alley, so I might make it again.

What do you think about this one? Anything I can do to improve fit?



Comments

  1. Your blouse turned out beautifully - the photos (is that a GIF?) show the swish factor. Since you specifically asked for feedback, here goes- next time you sew with silk crepe de chine, make samples of the interfacing before you make a final decision. I'm assuming the suitable interfacings you bought are fusible and you might actually prefer the look of a woven sew-in interfacing for fabric this light. Also I noticed that the shirt hangs longer in the back than the front but the line drawings don't seem to indicate that this is a high-low top. It makes it look like the garment isn't balanced (hanging level). The fix is a forward shoulder adjustment. Butt the bodice pattern pieces together at the shoulder seamline and re-draw a new seamline (parallel to the old one) on the front bodice. Once the shoulder seam is sitting in the right place, the hem will hang level. Overall, the shirt looks most excellent!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thank you for the comments! I really appreciate them! Actually both versions of this pattern have uneven hems, although the line drawings don't show that. Version A is longer in front, whereas the version I made is longer in the back. That being said, I do need a forward shoulder adjustment as well as the narrow shoulder one, so I'll do this if I even make this pattern again.

      You right in thinking I used organza because I wanted sew in interfacing- it was the lightest fabric I had that good enough. I don't think it's too bad a choice for the collar and front bands, but certainly the cuffs need something stiffer. I got both sew in and fusible interfacing now, so I'll definitely take your advice and test out for the next time.

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.


Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

Naming:
* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker



Steps:

1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

Pregnancy Pattern Round Up

Whilst I have been sewing these past 9 months, I haven't been posting much because in the past I was not massively keen on reading about people's pregnancy patterns. However, at some point I realized that I'm wrong and having some review out there would be useful, so decided to do a round up post about what I've learnt works and doesn't work in terms of this kind of sewing. This is a very long post :)

I had a fairly easy pregnancy, so I was perfectly positioned to have good results with sewing, which is great since maternity clothing is either decently priced and of bad quality, or expensive. Dime for dime, you get more out of non-maternity ready to wear.

Some lessons I learnt along the way:
Some non-pregnancy patterns will work for pregnancy. Sort of. As bump size increases, in the best case scenario you will get the mother of all pooling at the back, as if a gazillion-inch swayback is required (but isn't!). If that doesn't bother you, you're fine; otherw…

A new shirt

I made a white shirt. I cut this out sometime in late September, and I used McCalls 6035 again. I managed to finish it around Christmas. I wanted a nice white shirt, with a bit of a twist, so I added grey embelishments to it.


I am very pleased with how the embelishments turned out. I did a few things:
- embroidered the collar with French knots
- added grey/white twill tape to the sleeve seams
- used mother-of-pearl-with-grey-tint buttons

The effects are subtle, but they are there and I like them.



I embroidered the collar using two shades of grey, in a "burst" pattern. I tried to be relatively consistent about density of the French knots, but I think a bit of difference isn't very bad.


The collar was the first thing I finished, and it stayed there for a long time, until I found the time to get back to sewing.


I used a lot more interfacing on the collar than I normally do, and I think it shows. The buttons and tape on sleeves were added later and they're not very speci…