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Winter wear: V1247, maybe better this time?

I made another Vogue 1247 skirt. Hopefully this one will wear better than the last one.

Obligatory Auto Awesome
You see, I saw this on someone (I'm sorry, I have no idea who you were! but it was short and black and white checks or something!) at one of the London meetups I joined when I was still living there. I thought it was lovely, although as far as I remember the wearer was wearing it quite short.

This time, I lengthened the pattern quite a lot, and also added the waistband that came with the pattern sheet:


Now I have an office appropriate (for me!) winter skirt. I have been told after my last post that I am crazy and the length for the black skirt was perfectly appropriate :) heh

I used some checked wool I bought in Romania a couple of years back - it was going to be a dress, so I still have about a meter of this fabric left I think. I was thinking a 60s style square top maybe. I'll think about it some more.

I initially wanted this to be an easy project, but then I realized I was sewing with wool, and it was checked, so this really deserves some proper techniques, so I went all couture on this one, so it took a whole weekend + a bunch of extra sewing evenings.

I mostly followed the instructions in Susan Khaljie's Craftsy class - because in this situation the material matched well with the class.


I started off with underlining in silk organza, then cutting the pattern just right. I traced the stitching lines. I hand basted. I catch stitched allowances. I trimmed bulk and used a clapper dilligently.



This skirt has in total 4 visible seams (2xside, 1back, and a horizontal line where the pockets are). I am massively proud of how well I got the pattern to match. In fact, because I will wear it with even longer blouses than the one in these pictures, you usually won't even be able to see the non-matching bits.



I wasn't really able to fully match the waistband, but I did my best for it to match at the back and at the front. I used a lapped zipper (first time ever!) instead of the recommended invisible zipper because I thought the fabric was just too thick for a invisible zipper.



I also changed the waistband, for the same reason. In the original pattern, the waistband folds over itself, but I thought that wouldn't be great since the material was too heavy. Instead, I just cut the front, and a facing. 



I stitched the front to the skirt, then folded the 5/8" at the top. I then applied petersham ribbon. Sadly here I didn't have wide enough, so the waistband top is actually wavy in places because the ribbon only extends about 70% into the waistband width. I then hand stitched the facing using fell stitches:


I used silk habotai for the lining, the pattern for which came from the main skirt pieces. I mostly eyeballed where I had to cut (bad Laura!). 


I like the two-color effect. The white habotai is from London and not great quality. The brown one is the one I was raving about in my coat post - this is the rest from lining the coat sleeves, it just about fit. The lining is attached with fell stitches to the waistband and zipper:

I realized when I took the pictures how badly I matched the lining edges at the zipper. Sob.
For the hem, I used the same treatment that Susan Khaljie uses in the Craftsy class - skirt band turned up and secured to the underlining with catch stitches. Because the wool is heavy and I wanted a hefty hem allowance, I used two rows of catch stitches. 

For the lining, I left a bit  of room at the bottom and folded it as you would a coat lining - maybe about 1" turned up or so. Then, I used tiny fell stitches to attach it. This is good, because it gives me some extra ease in the lining for sitting down:


I'm very pleased (for now) with this result, and I wore it out once already. Hopefully it will last the winter!

I have a bunch of "Through Glass" videos from construction, I'll sift through them and post them online soon.

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