Skip to main content

Rain coat: construction

I have a bunch of pictures with details about my rain coat. This was my original construction plan. This is a very picture heavy post.


I'll start one by one. First, interfacing. The Robson coat pattern suggests less interfacing than I ended up using. I mostly used a very lightweight fusible interfacing (to match my very lightweight silk), but also silk organza.



I forget what the pattern asks for (I will edit this later), but I did the following:
* front facing - fusible
* front of jacket - lightweight organza
* everything floppy (lapels, epaulettes, back rain guard) - fusible
* collar / undercollar - fusible
* top of sleeve - fusible
* hems - a slightly stiffer lightweight organza

The pattern doesn't suggest interfacing the belt, and I didn't have enough interfacing left for it, but I think that would have been useful as well.

The top of sleeve and hem interfacing was an idea from Nordheim's Vintage Couture Tailoring. The top of sleeve is very simple - just cut a matching fusible piece and fuse.

The hems are using bias silk organza:


The process here is that you have wide strips of organza and you overlay them from seam to seam:


Then, you pad stitch them to the seam allowance:



Then they are turned up along the seam line.

I also sewed a lightweight chain inside the bottom hem, along the hemline. It helps with making it a bit of a round shape when I wear it closed.



I didn't bias-bind all seams, but I instead I used the hot pink for the pockets and lower hem. I then used a chocolate for the facing.


This way, there's less of a pink peek when you see the insides. The seams are flat felled and topstitched in pink:


Construction went together well, and I am pretty happy with it. It does need a good press often though.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.


Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

Naming:
* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker



Steps:

1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

A new shirt

I made a white shirt. I cut this out sometime in late September, and I used McCalls 6035 again. I managed to finish it around Christmas. I wanted a nice white shirt, with a bit of a twist, so I added grey embelishments to it.


I am very pleased with how the embelishments turned out. I did a few things:
- embroidered the collar with French knots
- added grey/white twill tape to the sleeve seams
- used mother-of-pearl-with-grey-tint buttons

The effects are subtle, but they are there and I like them.



I embroidered the collar using two shades of grey, in a "burst" pattern. I tried to be relatively consistent about density of the French knots, but I think a bit of difference isn't very bad.


The collar was the first thing I finished, and it stayed there for a long time, until I found the time to get back to sewing.


I used a lot more interfacing on the collar than I normally do, and I think it shows. The buttons and tape on sleeves were added later and they're not very speci…

Birds dress

Just another sheath dress from me today, from my TNT pattern. This one is all about the fabric:

I got this bird fabric from Plush Addict, and it seems to have been the last fabric purchase pre-baby (Cosmo - Nihonkai - Budgies On Oxford Cloth if you are interested), so didn't cut into it for a long time. In May, after finishing my coat, I finally took the plunge.


The pattern, as I said, was my TNT sheath pattern, pretty simple. The biggest challenge with this dress was fabric placement, I didn't want any weird bird cuts at seams, nor did I want any other sort of weird placement. 
As i had 2 meters of this fabric, I thought I should be able to get all that, so I spent a lot of time moving fabric pieces around, until I got it. I'm pretty happy with myself, the seams meld as much as possible, I'm particularly proud of the center back:


Construction wise, this dress has 6 darts and 5 seams, so it is all relatively straightforward. I stabilized the neckline and armholes with…