Skip to main content

Making the Jeb Trousers: sewing in 30 degree weather

It is really hot around here, and I'm loving it! Of course, sewing with the windows closed (mosquitoes), with a steam iron, a TV and a computer makes the experience a wee bit difficult but I'm not complaining...

My sewing room is a bit cramped, but I like it. My cutting table is sharing a desk with my old computer (now I just use it to Chormecast stuff like Craftsy courses to the TV). The pressing station is what's cramping everything up really, but I don't have anywhere else to put it so it has to do.  It's way better than the previous incarnation of my sewing room - a bit of the dining room table - where I always had to move the machine around when I wasn't using it!

I was busy with other things all week, so the cut-last-Sunday Jebediah trousers have been sitting in my sewing room, waiting for a free evening so I could get to them. I regret nothing, I had a very good week, with a pretty good grill on Tuesday and a lively night out in Zurich on Wednesday.

Anyway, I still need to pick up a trouser zipper for these, and some grey topstiching thread. I didn't lose much, since you can't do much before doing the zipper.

I think the instructions have you do the outseams first, then the inseam, crotch seam and then the zipper, but that just sounds harder to me. I think the easiest order of construction is inseam, crotch seam, zipper then outseams - that way, almost everything is sewed in the straight. You also don't cut any corners on the central part, which needs really hardy seams, but you can baste the outseams together to check fit. Hopefully this line of reasoning will actually work.

This is where I am at:


Of course, making trousers means that you do lots of things twice. That includes French seams on pockets. I thought about using cream thread for the pockets, but at least one of the visible stitch lines (the diagonal one) would still be in black, since it's visible on the right side of the fabric, so I figured it wasn't going to change much in the end. I finished both front pockets tonight - it took me about an hour and a half - actually this is the one reason I don't like price tags on self-made things. If you put a price on something, you have to consider everything, including time spent and materials, even hardware depreciation!

I'm was hoping to finish this this weekend - however, Mr T has requested a Laughing Man logo (complete with writing) for the back pockets. Now that's something you can't find in ready to wear. It will be an achievement in itself if I manage to get it done! I think I have to practice first though, so it might take quite a while to finish everything.

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.


Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

Naming:
* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker



Steps:

1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

A new shirt

I made a white shirt. I cut this out sometime in late September, and I used McCalls 6035 again. I managed to finish it around Christmas. I wanted a nice white shirt, with a bit of a twist, so I added grey embelishments to it.


I am very pleased with how the embelishments turned out. I did a few things:
- embroidered the collar with French knots
- added grey/white twill tape to the sleeve seams
- used mother-of-pearl-with-grey-tint buttons

The effects are subtle, but they are there and I like them.



I embroidered the collar using two shades of grey, in a "burst" pattern. I tried to be relatively consistent about density of the French knots, but I think a bit of difference isn't very bad.


The collar was the first thing I finished, and it stayed there for a long time, until I found the time to get back to sewing.


I used a lot more interfacing on the collar than I normally do, and I think it shows. The buttons and tape on sleeves were added later and they're not very speci…

Birds dress

Just another sheath dress from me today, from my TNT pattern. This one is all about the fabric:

I got this bird fabric from Plush Addict, and it seems to have been the last fabric purchase pre-baby (Cosmo - Nihonkai - Budgies On Oxford Cloth if you are interested), so didn't cut into it for a long time. In May, after finishing my coat, I finally took the plunge.


The pattern, as I said, was my TNT sheath pattern, pretty simple. The biggest challenge with this dress was fabric placement, I didn't want any weird bird cuts at seams, nor did I want any other sort of weird placement. 
As i had 2 meters of this fabric, I thought I should be able to get all that, so I spent a lot of time moving fabric pieces around, until I got it. I'm pretty happy with myself, the seams meld as much as possible, I'm particularly proud of the center back:


Construction wise, this dress has 6 darts and 5 seams, so it is all relatively straightforward. I stabilized the neckline and armholes with…