Skip to main content

A dream of (silvery) summer

We had a bit of sun over the weekend, so I took the opportunity to take pictures of another make from the last month or so.

Disclaimer: despite my last garment post being roughly a month ago, I actually sewed, sewed, sewed this month and have no less than 3 (or 4?) things to photograph. I also have plans for three more things: a pair of linen trousers for Mr T (already cut!), and for me a party dress  (I'm making the pattern on this one too) and a work dress. And that's just from full lengths of fabric!

Let me not digress, and present you with an obligatory auto-awesome of my new Afternoon Blouse:

Silly auto-awesome cuts off my head and I can't fix it!

This version is 100% linen that I bought in my grandma's town. It is light-weight, so something that doesn't have much structure is better suited I thought. I managed to squeeze both this and a shift dress from about 2 meters of fabric. I'll try to take pictures of the shift dress for my next post.

I really fell in love with the shade of gray - it's rather perfect for summer, and goes with everything, especially my Totoro jeans. I style it with the jeans for "casual" outings... including work :)... and having recently discovered that one can wear scarves in a way that doesn't scream "I'm over 50" (hopefully; I might feel like I'm 50 inside which would explain the newly-found acceptability of such an accessory but truth be told I'd rather not dwell on the idea for too long), I started wearing those too - this blouse works with every single scarf I own.

Pattern-wise, this version incorporates the changes I mentioned in my last post on slopers. I'm happy to report that the front wedge is gone.In a happy turn of events, with the removal of the wedge, the V-neck also sits better.

Here's a side-by-side comparison of the two makes:



The linen wears quite well, although being linen it's quite wrinkly. I didn't do anything like underlining, because I wanted this to be a simple top. As before, no swayback, and I'm really grateful that this pattern doesn't require that particular alteration:


For the facing, I used a matching grey cotton since I didn't have enough linen for that as well. I used the overcast stitch on my machine to finish the edges for it, but I wasn't very happy:


... So I decided to turn under and topstich for the rest of the blouse. I find this is a decent finish. It also makes for a fully topstitched garment, and roughly an extra hour of sewing. I used cream thread, which is invisible from afar but an interesting detail close by.

One benefit of topstitching everything is that I didn't have to tack down the facing, since it got caught it:



For the button, I used a fairly heavy sun button I picked up in a local shop called Manor. I bought this about a year ago, before I moved to Switzerland:


It's quite pretty, and it matches the general summer-sun-happy state that I get from this blouse.

How about you? Do you have a favorite style or fabric type that makes you think of summer?

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.


Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

Naming:
* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker



Steps:

1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

Birds dress

Just another sheath dress from me today, from my TNT pattern. This one is all about the fabric:

I got this bird fabric from Plush Addict, and it seems to have been the last fabric purchase pre-baby (Cosmo - Nihonkai - Budgies On Oxford Cloth if you are interested), so didn't cut into it for a long time. In May, after finishing my coat, I finally took the plunge.


The pattern, as I said, was my TNT sheath pattern, pretty simple. The biggest challenge with this dress was fabric placement, I didn't want any weird bird cuts at seams, nor did I want any other sort of weird placement. 
As i had 2 meters of this fabric, I thought I should be able to get all that, so I spent a lot of time moving fabric pieces around, until I got it. I'm pretty happy with myself, the seams meld as much as possible, I'm particularly proud of the center back:


Construction wise, this dress has 6 darts and 5 seams, so it is all relatively straightforward. I stabilized the neckline and armholes with…

Vogue 1350: fitting and adjustments

I had another post prepared, but I thought I'd write this up now, even without pictures - before I forget what I did. :) I recently made Vogue 1350, if you follow me on instagram (@auxetically) you will have seen construction photos. This is a Rachel Comey pattern - I really like these patterns, they all turn out very well for me! Here is the line drawing for reference:



Despite the line drawing, this pattern is supposed to have a raised waist. I was very pleasantly surprised to see petite lines on the pattern sheet (yay). Here's my finished dress on the dress form:



I made a muslin of the bodice only, in size 14 - my measurements take me between 14 and 16 on a Vogue, but I had the pattern version with the 12-14, so 14 it was. Measurement wise, this dress was spot on - I had to make extra adjustments where I would have needed the bigger pattern size.

The petite line removed 1" out of the bodice, and 1" out of the skirt. I sewed the bodice muslin with the petite marking…