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Showing posts from July, 2014

Jeb Trousers: Details

Now, Mr T absolutely refuses to do a photoshoot for zee internet, so sadly only details on the Jeb's I made for him. However, the cool thing is that my dad saw him wearing them and now wants a pair himself! So if I make those for him, I might get some photos for the blog anyway since he's not as sensitive about it.

This pattern is very very good - the final result is very close to RTW. I am extremely pleased with it

I made these from a light-to-medium weight linen, which feels amazing to the touch. I bought it at John Lewis, especially for Mr T - although I was planning to make him a shirt initially.

The inside is mostly finished with binding - I used binding for the waist band, the crotch seam, and the outseams. The inseams and the yoke seams are flat felled. The crotch seam is "fake felled" - it's finished with binding and then topstiched.

I did all seam finishes as per instructions, with the exception of the outseams, where I didn't press open the seams: in…

Party dress update

I'm at the stage where I'm sewing in the lining. I did a proper "couture" dress (not really couture but meh).

This was the dress as I let it hang on Sunday night:

The bodice is made from my sloper, and it has a dropped waist. It is underlined in silk organza. The skirt is underlined in China silk (a particularly nice one!), and cut on the bias.

The front currently hits me mid-thigh, and the back mid calf. I'll put the back up a bit I think. Hemming using narrow hems.

Front bodice placement

A fairly brief post tonight to ask my readers: what do you think of this bodice placement?

The outline in the picture is the front bodice (green wins), and I was trying pretty hard to place the big flowers away from the top of the darts.

I have two options:
1. Leave as is. Easy and I got the grain right, which isn't easy in this silk crepe. The darker area, together with the two big flowers, hit at the empire waist
2. Move the whole thing up a bit, so the big flowers and the blackish area in thr fabric hit at my waist (indicated by the middle of the darts). Advantage: darker area around the waist is a good optical illusion.

What do you think? I'm leaning towards (2) which somewhat sucks because I already basted the organza to the fabric at the bottom of the bodice. At least it was hand basting.

Sneak peek at the finished Jebs / other musings

Mr T has said he will absolutely, positively NOT model these for me, so I'll just do a construction post later in the week.

In the meanwhile, here's a sneak peek at parts of the finished item:

I'm really happy with how everything turned up!

I'm also planning to use my sloper to make a party dress, for a fancy affair I have coming up in 10 days (*gulp* last minute sewing).

This is my original inspiration - I drew this 3 weeks ago:

I upgraded the design to this in the meanwhile:

one shoulder designsecond shoulder will have a wide strap covered in smocked silk chiffon (might or might not iron that one - it looks like scales if you iron!)waist seamband below waist to high hip also covered in smocked silk chiffon (a bit like this)high-low skirt, with maybe a godet in the skirt piece (not sure about that one)from the "bare" shoulder (not really bare), a draped silk chiffon drop to the waist - this will catch in the side seam of the band Let's see how I…

Making the Jeb Trousers: sewing in 30 degree weather

It is really hot around here, and I'm loving it! Of course, sewing with the windows closed (mosquitoes), with a steam iron, a TV and a computer makes the experience a wee bit difficult but I'm not complaining...

My sewing room is a bit cramped, but I like it. My cutting table is sharing a desk with my old computer (now I just use it to Chormecast stuff like Craftsy courses to the TV). The pressing station is what's cramping everything up really, but I don't have anywhere else to put it so it has to do.  It's way better than the previous incarnation of my sewing room - a bit of the dining room table - where I always had to move the machine around when I wasn't using it!

I was busy with other things all week, so the cut-last-Sunday Jebediah trousers have been sitting in my sewing room, waiting for a free evening so I could get to them. I regret nothing, I had a very good week, with a pretty good grill on Tuesday and a lively night out in Zurich on Wednesday.


A dream of (silvery) summer

We had a bit of sun over the weekend, so I took the opportunity to take pictures of another make from the last month or so.

Disclaimer: despite my last garment post being roughly a month ago, I actually sewed, sewed, sewed this month and have no less than 3 (or 4?) things to photograph. I also have plans for three more things: a pair of linen trousers for Mr T (already cut!), and for me a party dress  (I'm making the pattern on this one too) and a work dress. And that's just from full lengths of fabric!

Let me not digress, and present you with an obligatory auto-awesome of my new Afternoon Blouse:

This version is 100% linen that I bought in my grandma's town. It is light-weight, so something that doesn't have much structure is better suited I thought. I managed to squeeze both this and a shift dress from about 2 meters of fabric. I'll try to take pictures of the shift dress for my next post.

I really fell in love with the shade of gray - it's rather perfect for…

Using the sloper: altering my afternoon blouse pattern

I sadly didn't take pictures while applying my sloper to my Licorice dress make, but after I made it I had a bit of leftover linen which I though would be just right for another Afternoon Blouse.

You may remember that my first Afternoon blouse was an almost success: it fit fairly well, including no need for a swayback, but it had some fabric pooling in front. I decided to apply the sloper to the pattern to see how I fare.

I have a half-sloper, in that mine has seam allowances at both the back, the side seams, and the shoulder seam. These are a leftover from the muslin period, where I needed them, but actually I find them quite useful for altering patterns as well, because it's easier to see how much the pattern really differs. If I need to use the sloper as a pattern piece, I fold in the seam allowances, and copy it, then make alterations and add new seam allowances.

This is my back sloper, overlayed on the back of the Afternoon blouse. As the pattern doesn't have a CB sea…

Threads Insider Review

I used to have a normal Threads subscription... Then, the credit card I had used to pay for the subscription expired, and the Threads system managed to mess something up.

Long story short, after talking to their support I somehow ended up with no subscription, and then proceeded to get a Threads Insider online thing instead, because they finally - 2 years later !!! - got an Android app.

Now, I would not normally bother with companies that mess up quite so much, but Threads is an extremely good magazine, so I thought it was worth making an exception.

For the uninitiated, a Threads subscription comes with: paper edition of the magazine, as well as nifty access to all their online resources, including the magazine. Threads Insider is the online version of this - no print magazine.

For the online resources, you need to use the web interface. It's ok to search (at least I always seem to find what I want), but quite difficult to figure out subscription metadata - I just generally click …