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Vogue 1247 - perfect little skirt!

I'm a bit late to jump on the bandwagon with this one, but it is a pretty nifty pattern. I was in London last week and bought some teal silk chiffon just to make the blouse as well!

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Black linen skirt with pockets and piping. I seem to like this type of blue quite a lot, I had loads of stuff on similar shades: piping is pre-made, pockets are from my remnant basket and bias tape from stash (my notions stash needs some work, it's running dangerously low on most stuff!)

Construction wise, I made a few changes. I underlined the back piece with silk organza, mostly to help with the wrinkling. It only partially works , but it's not too bad overall. :-)

I left out the waistband because Vogue designer patterns have this tendency to only fit me in the waist if I add a waistband (go figure!), but I can wear them at the high hip line if I don't add the waistband - I much prefer my skirts at the high hip line so this is what works for me.

Back view of the skirt

I didn't line it... yet.  I had some silk habutai in white and Bordeaux, but I thought the lining should be blue like the rest of the skirt underthings and since my local Bernina store doesn't stock silk of any sort (?!?!), I decided to reassess this situation come tights wearing season. I prefer to wear natural fabrics so I'm reluctant to mix linen with any type of polyester or whatever lining is made of (except for curpo bemberg which is made of rayon but where to get that from!).

Side view
Since the skirt is so short, I tried to save as much space as possible at both the waist and the hem.

For the waist, I used blue seam binding, which I then turned and topstiched. I wasn't very happy with the blue, so I also added some grosgrain on top - edge stitched it close to the edge (heh), then topstiched about 1cm down, over the original topstitching. The grosgrain acts as a "mock" waist stay - it extends past the zipper and catches with small snaps. There's also a more traditional button + chain attached to the blue ribbon.  The grosgrain is about 2cm in width so I can attach a lining there with minimal fuss later.

Waistband treatment

For the hem, I added pretty ribbon, turned and stitched. I think I lost less than 1cm at the hem. In case you're wondering, the ribbon came from John Lewis.

Hem - ribbon, turned and topstiched
The zipper is a normal one because I didn't have a black invisible zipper. I stitched it down to the underlining. It doesn't look that great from the outside sadly, but at least I matched the yoke lines well.

Zipper - wrong & right side
Seam finishing wise, I really wanted to do as much flat felling as I could on this one, but I had done trouble with the underlined back pieces, so had to resort to the recommended bias binding for most seams. I used bias binding on the pockets, as well as all back seams, and I flat felled the side seams towards the back - trimmed down the underlined seams and covered them with the non-underlined ones. In fact, I trimmed all seams as much as I could.

Seam finishes
I like the pockets but after wearing it a few times, I discovered that they tend to sag quite a bit (even on the dummy) especially if I put my hands in my pockets. I think the solution there is to tack them down, which I plan on doing at some point in the not-too-distant future.

All in all, a success so far. Mr T specifically had me keep my hands out of the pockets for the pictures :)


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