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Belacarra: a muslin

I wasn't going to make a muslin of this blouse but then I remembered the bib effect and did some measurements that helped me conclude that the pattern waist is not as far away from the top as my real waist.

All said and done. I cut a size 8 based on bust, and ended up doing extensive alterations.

As a side thought, I am considering cutting blouses based on my under bust measurement rather than bust but truth be told I'm not sure. Everyone says if upperbust is more than 1" different than bust cut according to upperbust and do a SBA/FBA but actually my under bust measurement is the widely different one. I might try that in the future and see how it goes.

Anyway, back to the muslin and the extensive alterations.

First, the front.

Here, I did two things:
* moved the front shoulder forward by half an inch at 3" from the seam, and then back to original position
* took half an inch on either side from the sleeves, tapering to nothing 7inches below
* made "the bib alteration", which is the same as a swayback.

This is the pattern piece now. Rather than removing the piece left when truing up the bib, I added it back.

Then, the back:

I did three things:
* swayback, 1" 2/8
* removed fabric at the shoulder level, similar to a swayback, 1" 2/8
* removed wedge of fabric when truing up pattern

This is what the piece looks now:

I'm reasonably confident about all this, so I'm cutting into fashion fabric next, but I'll baste everything together first to make sure no surprises appear.


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