Skip to main content

Belacarra: a muslin

I wasn't going to make a muslin of this blouse but then I remembered the bib effect and did some measurements that helped me conclude that the pattern waist is not as far away from the top as my real waist.

All said and done. I cut a size 8 based on bust, and ended up doing extensive alterations.

As a side thought, I am considering cutting blouses based on my under bust measurement rather than bust but truth be told I'm not sure. Everyone says if upperbust is more than 1" different than bust cut according to upperbust and do a SBA/FBA but actually my under bust measurement is the widely different one. I might try that in the future and see how it goes.

Anyway, back to the muslin and the extensive alterations.

First, the front.

Here, I did two things:
* moved the front shoulder forward by half an inch at 3" from the seam, and then back to original position
* took half an inch on either side from the sleeves, tapering to nothing 7inches below
* made "the bib alteration", which is the same as a swayback.

This is the pattern piece now. Rather than removing the piece left when truing up the bib, I added it back.

Then, the back:

I did three things:
* swayback, 1" 2/8
* removed fabric at the shoulder level, similar to a swayback, 1" 2/8
* removed wedge of fabric when truing up pattern

This is what the piece looks now:

I'm reasonably confident about all this, so I'm cutting into fashion fabric next, but I'll baste everything together first to make sure no surprises appear.


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.


Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

Naming:
* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker



Steps:

1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

A new shirt

I made a white shirt. I cut this out sometime in late September, and I used McCalls 6035 again. I managed to finish it around Christmas. I wanted a nice white shirt, with a bit of a twist, so I added grey embelishments to it.


I am very pleased with how the embelishments turned out. I did a few things:
- embroidered the collar with French knots
- added grey/white twill tape to the sleeve seams
- used mother-of-pearl-with-grey-tint buttons

The effects are subtle, but they are there and I like them.



I embroidered the collar using two shades of grey, in a "burst" pattern. I tried to be relatively consistent about density of the French knots, but I think a bit of difference isn't very bad.


The collar was the first thing I finished, and it stayed there for a long time, until I found the time to get back to sewing.


I used a lot more interfacing on the collar than I normally do, and I think it shows. The buttons and tape on sleeves were added later and they're not very speci…

Birds dress

Just another sheath dress from me today, from my TNT pattern. This one is all about the fabric:

I got this bird fabric from Plush Addict, and it seems to have been the last fabric purchase pre-baby (Cosmo - Nihonkai - Budgies On Oxford Cloth if you are interested), so didn't cut into it for a long time. In May, after finishing my coat, I finally took the plunge.


The pattern, as I said, was my TNT sheath pattern, pretty simple. The biggest challenge with this dress was fabric placement, I didn't want any weird bird cuts at seams, nor did I want any other sort of weird placement. 
As i had 2 meters of this fabric, I thought I should be able to get all that, so I spent a lot of time moving fabric pieces around, until I got it. I'm pretty happy with myself, the seams meld as much as possible, I'm particularly proud of the center back:


Construction wise, this dress has 6 darts and 5 seams, so it is all relatively straightforward. I stabilized the neckline and armholes with…