Skip to main content

Seam treatment musings

One couture finish (especially for garments which are lined) is to catch stitch the seam allowances to the underlining.  If the garment is unlined, I would use a slip stitch. I am not sure how couture this is - I just wouldn't want the considerable amount of thread used in catch stitching on display (even if on the inside!), so I think a slip stitch would be a good alternative.

But - what happens when the garment is not underlined? Catch stitching to the fashion fabric would work depending on the fabric - for example some fabrics would be too soft for that sort of treatment. For unlined garments, catch stitching is not an option at all, and slip stitching would not yield the desired result.

I have been thinking about this in the past few days for my Laurel blouse. I have a very soft fabric that I'm not sure I want to underline. I think I can solve this problem by using strips of woven interfacing, attached to the seam allowances. I guess both sew-in and fusible would work, but I would try the sew in sort because that could be attached when the seam is sewn in (and would otherwise flow free, which would reduce bulk).

My plan is to go to MacCulloch & Wallis and see if I can buy anything of the sort. Any thoughts on whether this would work?

Comments

  1. I'm not sure I understand what you are doing here. Are you thinking you would enclose the seam allowance in the interfacing, sort of like applying a bias binding to it? If so, why not try a seam tape, like Hug Snug? Otherwise, I think one of the most frequently used couture techniques is hand overcasting the seams, though that sounds pretty laborious! French seams and mock French seams are always good, too.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm trying to prevent the seam allowances flapping around (catch or slip stitch them to something so they aren't waving around freely). Usually it's not a problem with sturdier (shirting and above) versions of cotton but stuff like lawn is a bit of an issue. I also find that wool is a problem if the seam allowances aren't stitched down somehow. I'll do a picture tutorial.

      I think I'll finish the actual seams using either hand or machine overcasting (probably the former though since I like the process and it seems less bulky).

      Delete

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.


Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

Naming:
* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker



Steps:

1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

Pregnancy Pattern Round Up

Whilst I have been sewing these past 9 months, I haven't been posting much because in the past I was not massively keen on reading about people's pregnancy patterns. However, at some point I realized that I'm wrong and having some review out there would be useful, so decided to do a round up post about what I've learnt works and doesn't work in terms of this kind of sewing. This is a very long post :)

I had a fairly easy pregnancy, so I was perfectly positioned to have good results with sewing, which is great since maternity clothing is either decently priced and of bad quality, or expensive. Dime for dime, you get more out of non-maternity ready to wear.

Some lessons I learnt along the way:
Some non-pregnancy patterns will work for pregnancy. Sort of. As bump size increases, in the best case scenario you will get the mother of all pooling at the back, as if a gazillion-inch swayback is required (but isn't!). If that doesn't bother you, you're fine; otherw…

Mending with embroidery

Life with baby is lovely, but there's not much time for sewing. I did manage to make one shirt, and I got started on another one (also a shorts muslin for my dad!), but it's pretty slow going.

This is actually a post about craftiness and mending stuff rather than sewing a garment. I buy ready to wear from time to time, especially for the more flowy/looser style of tops which I like wearing but don't really enjoy sewing as I don't find them challenging enough. Still, buying ready to wear can sometimes have its downfalls, as was with this top: it's a very lightweight viscose, but after wearing it for a while it became a bit threadbare in the front. I kept it on my dress form for months - from June to September, when I finally decided what I wanted to do to mend it.


I always figured embroidery would probably be the best option, and I pinned a lot of stuff that I liked. As an aside, I don't normally use pintrest, since I don't see the purpose in just pinning ra…