Skip to main content

A foray into fitting: part 1

I have taken the plunge and got myself 2 hours of 1-2-1 tutoring at sewoverit for my birthday. Given I want to make something other than skirts, and I have no sewing buddy, I felt it was time to set a pattern into professional hands and fit it for me.

I took the pattern in Lynda Maynard's Craftsy course as a model because the bodice resembles a normal fitting block quite well. I'll try to get a normal fitting block done as well, but measuring one's back is hard :|

Today I spent one and a half of my two hours in the shop. We had to do so many alterations, we didn't even finish fitting the bodice!

I came in with a muslin cut using pattern size 12, based on my bust measurement (34"), as per the recommendation in the Craftsy course. Lynda Maynard recommends to always cut the size based on your bust and adjust the rest.

Here's what we did.

Adjustments we went through, in rough order:
Front Darts:
    Waist darts:
        * added 1.1cm to center front (throughout) to move darts further apart and get the positioned correctly
        * lowered darts by 2.5cm (1")
        * removed 1.2cm from each dart width
    Side darts:
         * lowered by about 1cm to point towards apex
Front waist:
         * dropped front bodice by 2.5 cm (1"), above the side dart, tapering at seams; this is the exact adjustment Lynda makes on both Betsy and Dolly in the "Upper body" lesson; the extra 2.5cm went into the side dart - I still need to move the point on that dart
Shoulder seams:
          * moved forward 2.5cm.
Back darts:
           * unpicked, removed 1cm width (so center back remains on grain); the teacher said she would have just taken the darts out and taken the seam in at the center back, but I preferred to keep the CB on grain since this will give me the option of moving the zipper to the side later.
           * moved 1cm towards CB
Swayback:
            * removed 2.5cm from center back, tapering to nothing at side seams

These feel like many alterations. I photocopied my pattern before I started transferring, and I will make a new muslin soon. Hopefully the only thing not fitting in that muslin will be the upper back. I'm going back for my final 30 minutes and a new fitting next week.

The only difference to Craftsy that I could see was that the shoulder seams were the last thing to be moved (they were the first thing moved in the Craftsy class). I'm not sure what to think about that, and the alteration was performed differently: we moved the whole seam (front and back), whereas on Craftsy the front staid the same and the back was the only one to move forward. I'm curious to see what the new muslin will look like!

I'll try to get some pictures up as well soon!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.


Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

Naming:
* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker



Steps:

1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

A new shirt

I made a white shirt. I cut this out sometime in late September, and I used McCalls 6035 again. I managed to finish it around Christmas. I wanted a nice white shirt, with a bit of a twist, so I added grey embelishments to it.


I am very pleased with how the embelishments turned out. I did a few things:
- embroidered the collar with French knots
- added grey/white twill tape to the sleeve seams
- used mother-of-pearl-with-grey-tint buttons

The effects are subtle, but they are there and I like them.



I embroidered the collar using two shades of grey, in a "burst" pattern. I tried to be relatively consistent about density of the French knots, but I think a bit of difference isn't very bad.


The collar was the first thing I finished, and it stayed there for a long time, until I found the time to get back to sewing.


I used a lot more interfacing on the collar than I normally do, and I think it shows. The buttons and tape on sleeves were added later and they're not very speci…

Birds dress

Just another sheath dress from me today, from my TNT pattern. This one is all about the fabric:

I got this bird fabric from Plush Addict, and it seems to have been the last fabric purchase pre-baby (Cosmo - Nihonkai - Budgies On Oxford Cloth if you are interested), so didn't cut into it for a long time. In May, after finishing my coat, I finally took the plunge.


The pattern, as I said, was my TNT sheath pattern, pretty simple. The biggest challenge with this dress was fabric placement, I didn't want any weird bird cuts at seams, nor did I want any other sort of weird placement. 
As i had 2 meters of this fabric, I thought I should be able to get all that, so I spent a lot of time moving fabric pieces around, until I got it. I'm pretty happy with myself, the seams meld as much as possible, I'm particularly proud of the center back:


Construction wise, this dress has 6 darts and 5 seams, so it is all relatively straightforward. I stabilized the neckline and armholes with…