Skip to main content

Getting to terms with fit

I don't usually do resolutions of any sort because I think things that are broken need to be fixed as soon as you become aware of them.

I have a fitting problem. I realized it when I made the third version of B6035, which is made of Thai silk and has yet to be blogged. It's actually M6035 - a quick Google search for B6035 reveals my blog posts and a knit pattern from an unknown pattern company.

So anyway, fitting problem. The shirt looks great on me but I cannot move without it running up. The back seems to be the issue as, funnily enough, when it does move up this is only apparent in the back - the front looks almost OK. This means I must wear it with a cardigan or not wear it at all. 

Wonky due to how I was standing
Front:


The truth is that I had some of these problems with the previous version too, but they are somehow exacerbated by a combination of fabric and longer sleeves.



Even though it looks like it has more fabric than it needs, it doesn't fit properly.

I haven't done anything about it yet because:
1. Despite making my third M6035 in August I wore it exactly twice that month and only went back to it in December. This I guess is partially due to the fitting issues but I deluded myself thinking that I had to wash it by hand (not true, delicates program + low dry work very well)
2. I haven't been sewing much since. I think that after that shirt I made a total of two garments in the rest of the year. Unfortunately, both of those have fitting issues: a skirt that is ever so slightly too tight, and a Grainline top with a lot of fabric pooling at the lower back.

So, when craftsy.com offered a class on fitting, I didn't even think twice: this spring I will learn how to fit clothes using their new class, Sew the Perfect Fit with Lynda Maynard.


I will post updates on how it is going and present neat little tips I pick up along the way.

___
It's actually M6035 - a quick Google search for B6035 reveals my blog posts and a knit pattern from an unknown pattern company.

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

How to make silk bias binding

I promised this tutorial a while ago, but was too busy with work to get to it. This tutorial will focus on how to iron and fold the binding, rather than how to cut it. I have three links to good tutorials about how to do the correct cutting.


Here goes: a tutorial for properly making bias binding. Apologies for picture quality, I was using my phone.

Tools needed:
* silk square for the bias, sewing machine and scissors to make the continuous bias strip that will be ironed into place
* a 2-inch (5cm) wide piece of cardboard
* some sort of vaporiser, filled with water
* bias tape maker - for these pictures, I used a Clover which makes 1/2" binding (starts with 1" strips), but if I were to do this again, I'd use the one which makes a 1" binding (out of 2" strips)

Naming:
* left-side: bias strip not yet passed through the bias maker
* right-side: bias strip which has been folded by the bias maker



Steps:

1. Cut bias strips out of your silk square. I like this tutorial…

Birds dress

Just another sheath dress from me today, from my TNT pattern. This one is all about the fabric:

I got this bird fabric from Plush Addict, and it seems to have been the last fabric purchase pre-baby (Cosmo - Nihonkai - Budgies On Oxford Cloth if you are interested), so didn't cut into it for a long time. In May, after finishing my coat, I finally took the plunge.


The pattern, as I said, was my TNT sheath pattern, pretty simple. The biggest challenge with this dress was fabric placement, I didn't want any weird bird cuts at seams, nor did I want any other sort of weird placement. 
As i had 2 meters of this fabric, I thought I should be able to get all that, so I spent a lot of time moving fabric pieces around, until I got it. I'm pretty happy with myself, the seams meld as much as possible, I'm particularly proud of the center back:


Construction wise, this dress has 6 darts and 5 seams, so it is all relatively straightforward. I stabilized the neckline and armholes with…

A new shirt

I made a white shirt. I cut this out sometime in late September, and I used McCalls 6035 again. I managed to finish it around Christmas. I wanted a nice white shirt, with a bit of a twist, so I added grey embelishments to it.


I am very pleased with how the embelishments turned out. I did a few things:
- embroidered the collar with French knots
- added grey/white twill tape to the sleeve seams
- used mother-of-pearl-with-grey-tint buttons

The effects are subtle, but they are there and I like them.



I embroidered the collar using two shades of grey, in a "burst" pattern. I tried to be relatively consistent about density of the French knots, but I think a bit of difference isn't very bad.


The collar was the first thing I finished, and it stayed there for a long time, until I found the time to get back to sewing.


I used a lot more interfacing on the collar than I normally do, and I think it shows. The buttons and tape on sleeves were added later and they're not very speci…